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Polish Archaeologists in Iraq

It's a well-known fact that Polish archaeologists enjoy a top-tier reputation worldwide, and Iraq is a paradise for any archaeologist, as it is the very cradle of civilization. Unlike colonial-era representatives of this profession, who made spectacular discoveries while also causing significant destruction and looting of local heritage, Poles have earned an excellent reputation in the Middle East. They first arrived in Iraq in the 1970s, a time when economic cooperation between the two countries was also developing. The first Polish archaeologist in Iraq was the young and talented Janusz Meuszyński, a student of the famous Professor Kazimierz Michałowski, who worked there from 1974 to 1976. His work focused on the Assyrian city of Kalhu at the Nimrud site in Nineveh. Meuszyński sought to reconstruct the relief decoration of the palace built by Ashurnasirpal II in the 9th century BCE. Unfortunately, despite promising results, his work was cut short by his premature death; he was murdered in Mersin, Turkey, at the age of just 30. Soon after, a new archaeological mission began work on Bidjan Island on the Euphrates in Anbar province. It was led by Professor Michał Gawlikowski and the late Dr. Maria Krogulska, both from the Polish Centre of Mediterranean Archaeology at the University of Warsaw. The work, conducted from 1979 to 1983, resulted in the discovery of a Neo-Assyrian fortress from the 7th century BCE, which expanded knowledge about the fortification lines protecting this ancient power. Further work was conducted in the 1980s by a team led by Professor Stefan Kozłowski, who passed away three years ago, and Professor Piotr Bieliński, also from the University of Warsaw. Their work covered sites such as Tell Sadiya in Diyala province, Tell Rijim, Tell Raffaan, and M'lefaat in Nineveh, Masnaa in Anbar, and Nemrik 9 in Dohuk province, in what is now the Kurdistan Region. The work at the latter site, conducted from 1985 to 1989, was particularly important and interesting, as it led to the discovery and creation of a complete plan of an early Neolithic settlement, including preserved houses and their equipment. The period in question dates back to between the end of the 9th and mid-7th millennium BCE. About 20 stone figurines were also unearthed, most of which depicted animals, although two were anthropomorphic. Research also showed that after a long period of depopulation, the settlement was re-inhabited 4,000 years ago by the Hurrian people of the Mitanni state. Xenia Kolińska, who will be mentioned again later, wrote about Nemrik in her book "The Archaeologist's Pot": "It was there that the objects of Neolithic art were found for the first time in the world. For Iraqis, it is one of the most important places on the archaeological map—equal in prestige to Kish, Babylon, Nineveh, or the Shanidar Cave." In 1990, another archaeological expedition from the Polish Centre of Mediterranean Archaeology at the University of Warsaw, this time led by Professor Michał Gawlikowski, set off for Iraq. Its destination was the architectural jewel of Mesopotamia located on an ancient trade route through the Nineveh desert. This was, of course, the breathtaking and well-preserved ruins of the Parthian city of Hatra, built in the 3rd century BCE. It was the first site in Iraq to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985. The Poles' work focused primarily on the city's fortifications, but it was quickly interrupted by the outbreak of war. Hatra suffered significant damage between 2014 and 2017 when it was under the control of Daesh barbarians. Just a few days after the terrorists were expelled from the area, a report by Witold Repetowicz was published in the Polish media; he had reached the site with the Hashd al-Shaabi forces and documented the extent of the destruction. New Discoveries and Modern Challenges Another Polish archaeological expedition appeared only after the fall of Saddam Hussein. It was a difficult time for Iraq's cultural heritage. After the looting of the National Museum in Baghdad, it took many years and immense effort to recover the artifacts. Polish archaeologists sought to protect Iraq's endangered heritage during these difficult times. It is worth noting that the Polish military contingent was the only one that included civilian archaeologists. Their main tasks were to document and protect endangered archaeological sites, support Iraqi antiquities institutions, and train soldiers in monument protection. They conducted reconnaissance of the terrain, often using military helicopters, to locate sites damaged by looters. Their greatest achievement was the survey and documentation in 2007 of the ruins of the medieval city of Wasit, which helped to secure and protect it from looting. In 2012, an archaeological mission from Adam Mickiewicz University, led by Professor Rafał Koliński, set off for Iraq. Its achievements rival those made in the mid-1980s at Nemrik-9. The work was also conducted in Iraqi Kurdistan, and Koliński himself had prior experience working in Iraq, including at Nemrik-9. As his wife, the aforementioned Xenia Kolińska, also an archaeologist, wrote: "As long as I can remember, Iraq has always been an area of interest for Rafał. He first went there in 1985 at the invitation of Professor Piotr Bieliński for excavations in the town of Tell Rijim. The following year, he accompanied Professor Stefan K. Kozłowski at the now-iconic Nemrik site." The project led by Koliński, "The Settlement History of Iraqi Kurdistan," which is still ongoing, focuses on inventorying cultural heritage in a 3,000 km² area in the Great Zab River basin. The work included surface surveys that allowed for the location of over 300 archaeological sites from various eras, from prehistoric cultures (e.g., the Hassuna culture) to modern times. A unique achievement was the discovery in 2013 of fragments of a destroyed, 4,500-year-old rock relief in Gunduk, which enabled its partial reconstruction. Interestingly, its destruction did not happen in antiquity but in 1996. As Professor Koliński explained in an interview with PAP: "A group of treasure hunters from Turkey placed an explosive charge, the explosion of which was meant to open a path to valuables hidden behind the relief. Of course, there were no treasures. But the destruction was immense." Professor Koliński considered the uniqueness of his discovery to lie, among other things, in the fact that "we managed to restore to science a monument that seemed to be irretrievably lost." The research of the Polish archaeological mission in Kurdistan, which also included scientists from the University of Warsaw, helped to describe the expansion of the Uruk culture, originating from southern Iraq, into adjacent areas in the late Copper Age. It is a fascinating story of prehistoric invasions and colonization, hidden in the earth and recorded in artifacts. It is worth to mention that Professor Koliński and his team were deciphering this story between 2012 and 2017, when a fierce battle with Daesh terrorists was raging just 50-60 km from their sites. The professor's wife, Xenia Kolińska, who participated in the mission, wrote the extraordinary book "The Archaeologist's Pot," published in 2014. The title itself is very interesting because an archaeologist often digs up ancient pots, while at the same time, after work, he eats from modern pots. Kolińska's book is both a cookbook with Oriental recipes and a vibrant account of the mission's work, as well as a chronicle of their adventures in what is, after all, a patriarchal society. The Kolińskis have not said their last word in Iraq. In August 2025, the next phase of their project in Iraqi Kurdistan was launched: the study of Christian sacred architecture in the Nahla Valley in the Kurdistan Mountains. It is known that Christians have been there since at least the 9th century, but Professor Koliński aims to provide a precise answer to the question of when they first appeared. Scientific cooperation between Poland and Iraq is, of course, not limited to archaeology. Many Iraqis have studied and earned their doctorates at Polish universities. Some have remained in Poland, while others have returned to Iraq. For example, in 2020, 319 students from Iraq were studying in Poland, mainly in fields such as medicine, management, and construction. But Poles have also studied in Iraq. One of the most outstanding Polish diplomats, Jan Natkański, studied Arabic language and culture in Baghdad from 1965 to 1969. He later served as an ambassador in places like Kuwait and Egypt and became one of the most respected popularizers of knowledge about the Arab world in Poland.

It’s a well-known fact that Polish archaeologists enjoy a top-tier reputation worldwide, and Iraq is a paradise for any archaeologist, as it is the very cradle of civilization. Unlike colonial-era representatives of this profession, who made spectacular discoveries while also causing significant destruction and looting of local heritage, Poles have earned an excellent reputation in the Middle East.

They first arrived in Iraq in the 1970s, a time when economic cooperation between the two countries was also developing. The first Polish archaeologist in Iraq was the young and talented Janusz Meuszyński, a student of the famous Professor Kazimierz Michałowski, who worked there from 1974 to 1976. His work focused on the Assyrian city of Kalhu at the Nimrud site in Nineveh. Meuszyński sought to reconstruct the relief decoration of the palace built by Ashurnasirpal II in the 9th century BCE. Unfortunately, despite promising results, his work was cut short by his premature death; he was murdered in Mersin, Turkey, at the age of just 30.

Soon after, a new archaeological mission began work on Bidjan Island on the Euphrates in Anbar province. It was led by Professor Michał Gawlikowski and the late Dr. Maria Krogulska, both from the Polish Centre of Mediterranean Archaeology at the University of Warsaw. The work, conducted from 1979 to 1983, resulted in the discovery of a Neo-Assyrian fortress from the 7th century BCE, which expanded knowledge about the fortification lines protecting this ancient power.

Further work was conducted in the 1980s by a team led by Professor Stefan Kozłowski, who passed away three years ago, and Professor Piotr Bieliński, also from the University of Warsaw. Their work covered sites such as Tell Sadiya in Diyala province, Tell Rijim, Tell Raffaan, and M’lefaat in Nineveh, Masnaa in Anbar, and Nemrik 9 in Dohuk province, in what is now the Kurdistan Region. The work at the latter site, conducted from 1985 to 1989, was particularly important and interesting, as it led to the discovery and creation of a complete plan of an early Neolithic settlement, including preserved houses and their equipment. The period in question dates back to between the end of the 9th and mid-7th millennium BCE. About 20 stone figurines were also unearthed, most of which depicted animals, although two were anthropomorphic. Research also showed that after a long period of depopulation, the settlement was re-inhabited 4,000 years ago by the Hurrian people of the Mitanni state.

Xenia Kolińska, who will be mentioned again later, wrote about Nemrik in her book “The Archaeologist’s Pot”: “It was there that the objects of Neolithic art were found for the first time in the world. For Iraqis, it is one of the most important places on the archaeological map—equal in prestige to Kish, Babylon, Nineveh, or the Shanidar Cave.”

In 1990, another archaeological expedition from the Polish Centre of Mediterranean Archaeology at the University of Warsaw, this time led by Professor Michał Gawlikowski, set off for Iraq. Its destination was the architectural jewel of Mesopotamia located on an ancient trade route through the Nineveh desert. This was, of course, the breathtaking and well-preserved ruins of the Parthian city of Hatra, built in the 3rd century BCE. It was the first site in Iraq to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985. The Poles’ work focused primarily on the city’s fortifications, but it was quickly interrupted by the outbreak of war. Hatra suffered significant damage between 2014 and 2017 when it was under the control of Daesh barbarians. Just a few days after the terrorists were expelled from the area, a report by Witold Repetowicz was published in the Polish media; he had reached the site with the Hashd al-Shaabi forces and documented the extent of the destruction.

New Discoveries and Modern Challenges

Another Polish archaeological expedition appeared only after the fall of Saddam Hussein. It was a difficult time for Iraq’s cultural heritage. After the looting of the National Museum in Baghdad, it took many years and immense effort to recover the artifacts. Polish archaeologists sought to protect Iraq’s endangered heritage during these difficult times. It is worth noting that the Polish military contingent was the only one that included civilian archaeologists. Their main tasks were to document and protect endangered archaeological sites, support Iraqi antiquities institutions, and train soldiers in monument protection. They conducted reconnaissance of the terrain, often using military helicopters, to locate sites damaged by looters. Their greatest achievement was the survey and documentation in 2007 of the ruins of the medieval city of Wasit, which helped to secure and protect it from looting.

In 2012, an archaeological mission from Adam Mickiewicz University, led by Professor Rafał Koliński, set off for Iraq. Its achievements rival those made in the mid-1980s at Nemrik-9. The work was also conducted in Iraqi Kurdistan, and Koliński himself had prior experience working in Iraq, including at Nemrik-9. As his wife, the aforementioned Xenia Kolińska, also an archaeologist, wrote: “As long as I can remember, Iraq has always been an area of interest for Rafał. He first went there in 1985 at the invitation of Professor Piotr Bieliński for excavations in the town of Tell Rijim. The following year, he accompanied Professor Stefan K. Kozłowski at the now-iconic Nemrik site.”

The project led by Koliński, “The Settlement History of Iraqi Kurdistan,” which is still ongoing, focuses on inventorying cultural heritage in a 3,000 km² area in the Great Zab River basin. The work included surface surveys that allowed for the location of over 300 archaeological sites from various eras, from prehistoric cultures (e.g., the Hassuna culture) to modern times. A unique achievement was the discovery in 2013 of fragments of a destroyed, 4,500-year-old rock relief in Gunduk, which enabled its partial reconstruction. Interestingly, its destruction did not happen in antiquity but in 1996. As Professor Koliński explained in an interview with PAP: “A group of treasure hunters from Turkey placed an explosive charge, the explosion of which was meant to open a path to valuables hidden behind the relief. Of course, there were no treasures. But the destruction was immense.” Professor Koliński considered the uniqueness of his discovery to lie, among other things, in the fact that “we managed to restore to science a monument that seemed to be irretrievably lost.”

The research of the Polish archaeological mission in Kurdistan, which also included scientists from the University of Warsaw, helped to describe the expansion of the Uruk culture, originating from southern Iraq, into adjacent areas in the late Copper Age. It is a fascinating story of prehistoric invasions and colonization, hidden in the earth and recorded in artifacts. It is worth to mention that Professor Koliński and his team were deciphering this story between 2012 and 2017, when a fierce battle with Daesh terrorists was raging just 50-60 km from their sites. The professor’s wife, Xenia Kolińska, who participated in the mission, wrote the extraordinary book “The Archaeologist’s Pot,” published in 2014. The title itself is very interesting because an archaeologist often digs up ancient pots, while at the same time, after work, he eats from modern pots. Kolińska’s book is both a cookbook with Oriental recipes and a vibrant account of the mission’s work, as well as a chronicle of their adventures in what is, after all, a patriarchal society.

The Kolińskis have not said their last word in Iraq. In August 2025, the next phase of their project in Iraqi Kurdistan was launched: the study of Christian sacred architecture in the Nahla Valley in the Kurdistan Mountains. It is known that Christians have been there since at least the 9th century, but Professor Koliński aims to provide a precise answer to the question of when they first appeared.

Scientific cooperation between Poland and Iraq is, of course, not limited to archaeology. Many Iraqis have studied and earned their doctorates at Polish universities. Some have remained in Poland, while others have returned to Iraq. For example, in 2020, 319 students from Iraq were studying in Poland, mainly in fields such as medicine, management, and construction. But Poles have also studied in Iraq. One of the most outstanding Polish diplomats, Jan Natkański, studied Arabic language and culture in Baghdad from 1965 to 1969. He later served as an ambassador in places like Kuwait and Egypt and became one of the most respected popularizers of knowledge about the Arab world in Poland.